#Beppu

Beppu Jigoku

Beppu is one of Japan’s most famous onsen towns. Nowhere else has such abundant hot springs. The whole town is hissing and bubbling. You can chill out in hot baths, cook your grub in the hot steam, or kill some time checking out the different hells. They show off steaming, boiling, and bubbling ponds in loads of different colours, sizes, and temperatures (up to 98°C).

The most famous ones are the seven hells of Beppu:

  • Oniishibōzu Jigoku: In this hell, grey mud puddles bubble up, meant to look like shaved monks’ heads, giving it the name “Oniishi Shaved Head Hell”.
  • Umi Jigoku: The “Sea Hell” is the nicest of the seven. Across a massive area, there’s a big pond with lotus flowers, a small mega-steamy pond, and a slightly hidden orange one. You can grab some souvenirs in the building.
  • Kamado Jigoku: The “Cooking Pot Hell” is where the action is at. Entertainers keep the crowd amused with little shows, though only in Japanese.
  • Oniyama Jigoku: The water temp in this “Ogre Mountain Hell” is spot on for breeding crocodiles. You can snap pics of them in their cages from a safe distance.
  • Shiraike Jigoku: The “White Pond Hell” features steaming, milky-cloudy water and a little aquarium too.
  • Chinoike Jigoku: The blood-red pond gave this hell its name. It’s tucked into a hillside and makes a wicked photo spot.
  • Tatsumaki Jigoku: The main draw of the “Waterspout Hell” is a geyser that goes off about every 30-40 mins. It’s totally worth asking when the next eruption is first, and maybe killing time next door at the Chinoike Jigoku while you wait.

You shell out 400¥ to get into each of the seven hells. Or you can just grab a combo ticket for 2000¥ at the first hell you hit up. The association for these seven hells has a brochure with more info. There are even more hells in Beppu, like the Yama Jigoku, but they aren’t part of the association and charge separate entry fees.

The easiest way to get to the hells is taking a bus from Beppu Station to the Kannawa Bus Terminal stop. If you fancy a bit of a walk (like we did), you can combine the visit with an 8-kilometre hike. The starting point is Beppudaigaku Station, which you can reach from Beppu on the JR Nippo Line. The trail ends at Kamegawa Station, where you can catch the same line back to the main station.

The last two hells are a bit out of the way. You can get there on foot with a chill walk through a slightly rural spot on the edge of town, or just grab a bus (to the Chinoike Jigoku Mae stop) or a taxi. We didn’t think they were as exciting as the other hells, though. If you’re pushed for time, you can probably skip the detour.

Travel Journal 2018: Beppu

In Beppu, it’s bubbling, hissing, and steaming. The city uses its hot volcanic mineral springs for all sorts of things: for thermal baths, for steaming food, or as a tourist attraction. Steam comes out of every crack, and a smell of sulphur hangs in the air here and there.

We visited the Beppu Jigoku, the seven hells of Beppu. Here you can admire different forms of mineral waters. Sometimes as turquoise, steaming water. Sometimes as a blood-red pond. Sometimes as bubbling grey mud. The hot water is even suitable for breeding crocodiles.